Baking with Chocolate, Building with Steel OLA: Pennsylvania, Part 1

Hershey's Kisses being packaged in Hershey, Pennsylvania factory...

with Terry Allen in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Pennsylvania gave us so many finds so this is just Part 1! Hershey, Pennsylvania,baked with chocolate, offered us the opportunity to be children all over again!  Further west is Pittsburgh, the city built from steel, where Bill met with a colleague, Terry Allen, from Fiserv Document Solutions where Bill served as President.  

Hershey, Pennsylvania

the real Hershey factory in Hershey, Pennsylvannia

The Hershey School in Hershey, Pennsylvania

Contrary to popular belief, Hershey, Pennsylvania is a census-designated place (CDP) in Derry Township, Dauphin County with no legal status as an incorporated municipality. With a population over 12,000, it is popularly called ‘Chocolatetown, USA, the Sweetest Place on Earth.’ It is a must-see for children of all ages (like 68-year old Bill and 63-year old Carol): Chocolate World, Hershey Park, Hershey Factory, Hershey Museum, Hershey Hotel, Hershey Garden, Hershey School among all Hershey things!

the Hershey Hotel in Hershey, Pennsylvaniad

view o Hershey factoryy and Hershey Park from atop the hill
 at Herhsey Garden, Hershey, Pennsylvania

The Chocolate World was where we stayed the longest. Its Chocolate Factory Tour is free and so we took it twice! We also saw seen a film about the history of Hershey. It was the best 3-D (actually it was 4-D) film we have ever seen. Then we learned all about the different kinds of chocolates…how they taste, sound, and look! Even the gift shop is by itself an amazing experience with all kinds of chocolate goodies. Good thing there were enough free samples to last the day and not spoil the diet!

Carol at Chocolate World

Bill with a 5-lb Hershey chocolate bar at the Gift Shop

The real Hershey Factory is at the center of downtown with two Hershey smokestacks prominently seen from anywhere around the city. We had quite a day looking for the best angle to shoot from. We finally found it atop the hill where the Hershey Hotel, the Hershey Garden, and the Hershey School were located. It also gave us a more panoramic view of the Hershey Park, a good-sized theme park (Guess what the theme is?). It was truly a whole lot of fun for new kids like us!

the Hershey smokestacks at Hershey, Pennsylvania

PPG Place in downtown Pittsburgh Pennsylvania

Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

The city of steel has grown to a city of charm. The PPG Place is a three-block area of glass buildings surrounding a charming little park. The Heinz Chapel stands on a corner of the beautiful campus of the University of Pittsburgh next to the Cathedral of Learning. The only National Aviary in the US, home to 600 species of birds, is at the city center.  And the Three Sisters, the only trio of almost identical bridges in the US span the Allegheny River in downtown Pittsburgh.  Self-anchored suspension bridges , they are built with steel and steel eye-bars instead of cables, and are all colored yellow!!! 

Three Sisters on the Allegheny River in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

the Cathedral of Learning

I was also thrilled to find out that there will soon be a Philippine Room at the Nationality Rooms of the University of Pittsburg, a unique collection of 29 classrooms in the Cathedral of Learning depicting and donated by the ethnic groups that helped build the city of Pittsburgh. The rooms and the building are both designated as historical landmarks and are still utilized daily, mostly as study rooms, but also in an extensive intercultural involvement and exchange program.

the India Room, one of 29 of the Nationality Rooms at the University of Pittsburgh 

Duquesne Incline, hugging Mount Washington

The Duquesne Incline is a funicular that scales Mt. Washington, the highest Pittsburgh hill. Completed in 1877, it is 800 feet long, 400 feet high, and is inclined at a 30 degree angle with an unusual 5 ft gauge. But we drove up the hill instead taking the Incline and found a panoramic view of the city, Heinz Stadium, the many bridges that span the Allegheny River. We also discovered there the dramatic statue of George Washington and Guyasuta who probably served as a scout for the young Washington in 1753. 

Statue of Guyasuta and George WAshington atop Mount Washington, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

the Saint Anthony Chapel in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

But our biggest discovery was Saint Anthony's Chapel, built in 1880 by Fr. Suitbert Mollinger, pastor of the Most Holy Name of Jesus Parish in Troy Hill. The chapel houses 4,000 to 5,000 religious relics, the largest collection outside the Vatican! Our guide told us how Fr, Mollinger built the collections, mostly from his own money through the years. We also found out that there are the three classes of relics: first class-from the body of a saint or one near sainthood, second class-an object once in the possession of a saint, and third class-something touched by a first or second class relic. The chapel is truly amazing!

Other Lovely Towns in Pennsylvania

the handsome Pennsylvania State Capitol, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania

the original pretzel factory, Lilitz, Pennsylvania

Hershey is next to the city of Harrisburg, Pennsylvania which has the handsomest state capitol in the land!.And the Sturgis Pretzel House of Lititz, Pennsylvania, founded in 1861,is the oldest commercial pretzel bakery in the US and remains active today. Just 6 miles south is Lancaster, Pennsylvania where the Hershey campground of the Thousand Trails System was our home for 3 weeks.

Amish Village in Lancaster, Pennsylvania

Wheatland, home of James Buchanan in Lancaster, Pennsylvania

Bill met with another colleague from Fiserv, Gene Natale, at the outskirts of Lancaster. Since I did not join them, Bill brought home photos of the Mennonite and Amish life which flourish in the area. Tours gave him the difference between their lifestyles. Wheatland, home of James Buchanan, 15^th president of the US when the country was at the brink of the Civil War, is also a landmark.

with Gene Natale in Lancaster, Pennsylvania

Pennsylvania is filled with great finds…from chocolate to steel, from universities to churches, from funiculars to bridges, from old to modern ways of living.  And we haven’t even talked about Philly yet!

OLA: Putting Georgia on My Mind (Attractions)

a little portion of the massive oil painting at the Cyclorama

‘Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness… Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime’, Mark Twain, Innocents Abroad. This quote came to my mind when Bill and I took a 2-day trip to Atlanta, Georgia, only 2 hours from our campground. Our travels finally brought us to a hotbed of the great prejudice of the past and it is a chance to confront whatever remaining prejudice, if any, we may still have
.

Stone Mountain from across the other side of the lake in the Park

 It has been a long road from the time slavery became commonplace in the American South to help landlords run their plantations. Georgia was the fifth of eleven states to secede from the Union in January 1861 on the eve of the sure election of Lincoln, an abolitionist, as president.  Today, Atlanta is still largely black, 54% in the 2010 census versus 38% white, 5% Asian, and 3% Hispanic. As we went around, I found out that this demographic and slice of history shaped the city’s top attractions.

The ‘Battle of Atlanta’ Cyclorama

the entrance facade of the Cyclorama 

Our first stop in Atlanta was the incredible Cyclorama. The painting is the largest oil painting in the world. If unrolled, it would measure 42 feet high by 358 feet long. Cheapskate Carol first thought the admission fee too high for one painting but this convinced me to temporarily abandon Budgeting 101! We viewed the cylindrical painting from the inside where we were seated on a cylinder that rotates slowly affording a 360 degree view, including the diorama which has been seamlessly built around it.

The painting brings to life the fierce fighting as Confederate defenders of Atlanta staged an unsuccessful counterattack on the Union army on July 22, 1864. Commissioned after the end of the war, it opened to display in Detroit, Michigan, in 1887, going around until the circus that owned it went bankrupt. Finally, the Atlanta Civil War Museum was built in 1921 to house it and, after a period of neglect, the painting and building were restored in the 1980s. In the end, I was glad that my frugality did not stand in the way of this unique experience! We had already missed the smaller one in Gettysburg!

the Confederate Carving bas-relief on Stone Mountain

The Stone Mountain Park

Just 45 minutes east of Atlanta is the Stone Mountain in the town of the same name. Much like Devil’s Tower in Wyoming, it is an igneous intrusion. A dome of quartz monzonite, 1,686 feet at its summit and more than five miles in circumference at its base, it has been erroneously dubbed as “the largest exposed piece of granite in the world". It is well-known not only for its geology, but also for the largest bas-relief (3 acres, 3 football fields) in the world depicting the three pillars of the Confederate States of America: Generals Stonewall Jackson and Robert E. Lee and President Jefferson Davis.

the 732-bell Carillon at Stone Mountain Park

I felt the Confederate Carving, however, fails in comparison to the grandeur of Mt. Rushmore whose very sculptor, Borglum, resigned from this project. Disappointed , we spent the time driving around the perimeter road. We were rewarded with awesome sights: the view of the mountain from the golf course across the lake, the 732-bell Carillon off a promontory into the lake (the music that was playing when we arrived was Ave Maria), the grist mill tucked away almost hidden by the blazing trees, and all the trails and winding roads with the muted fall colors of the southeast in full regalia. The Park such a neatly ‘landscaped’ piece of nature. .

And we didn’t have enough time to meander around its museums, plantations, playgrounds, and marina, camp at its campground, and dine at its hotels, all imprinted with Confederate memories.

The Underground Atlanta

Bill did business in Atlanta before. He was nostalgic about a historic downtown area of about 6 blocks where he had many a good evening of entertainment (wonder with whom?)!

Underground Atlanta today

Underground Atlanta grew from the Zero Milepost of the railroad built to connect Atlanta and Chattanooga in 1836. Many significant architectural features survived from original storefronts, including ornate marble, granite archways, cast iron pilasters, decorative brickwork, and hand-carved wood posts and panels. The construction of the MARTA rapid transit line in 1980 led to its closing.  21 years later, at a cost of $142 million, through a joint venture between the City of Atlanta and private industry, it reopened.

the stairs going down to the first level of the Underground

 It is sad that their investment has not brought back the bustling area it once probably was. Today it is largely a gathering area for African-Americans. But Bill treated me to dinner there, a fine way to end our day. He was the only Caucasian and I was the only Asian in the Georgia Peaches Restaurant at the bottom level, the entertainment level.

Andersonville National Historic Site

Andersonville National Cemetery

On our day trip to Americus, Georgia, we passed the town of Andersonville where the Confederacy had a large Civil War Prison and Cemetery. Called Camp Sumter, in existence for 14 months, the prison held 45,000 Union soldiers, almost 13,000 of whom died from disease, poor sanitation, malnutrition, overcrowding, and exposure to the elements. The largest number held at any one time was more than 32,000 in August of 1864. The National Prisoner of War Museum at the National Historic Site is dedicated to the American men and women who have suffered as POWs. The cemetery is now a National Cemetery, continuing to serve as a honored burial place for modern-day veterans.

I am so glad we travel. Little by little, we see that remaining vestiges of prejudice is being erased all around, even within, us.

Next Post: Keeping Georgia on My Mind: Great Institutions, Great Men

Loving Nature's Work at the Nation's Center OLA

Devil's Tower, a unique igneous intrusion

prairie grasslands near the badlands

I thought those striking man-made wonders would dwarf whatever work of nature there is in the area! After all, they call it Badlands, conjuring images of vast wastelands! I was dead wrong! Instead, the area engenders praise because of the abundance of painted cliffs, canyons, and mounds, unending prairie grasslands, sink holes from which great archaeological finds were unearthed, the world’s most complex and longest cave systems, and unique igneous intrusion formations!

a section of the Badlands' Wall in South Dakota

Over 65 million years ago, western America was buckling to create the Rockies, spilling large amounts of sediment eastward. Its volcanoes were also erupting, spitting out huge amounts of ash. Over time, they turned into layers of sand, silt, and mud stone. Then about 2 million years ago, huge continental ice sheets advanced southward, blocking the flow of north-flowing rivers, creating new courses eastward and southward. Flowing faster, the rivers sliced through the soft rocks. The Black Hills (black because 90% of the hills are covered with ponderosas) were created from a secondary upsurge after the Rockies, after which the water that covered most of the area drained and the Dakota Badlands were revealed.

 

Yellow Mounds in the Badlands

South Dakota’s Badlands National Park covers over 240,000 acres and preserves the sharply eroded buttes, pinnacles, and spires blended with the largest protected mixed grass (over 20 varieties) prairie in the United States. Continuing erosion happens at about an inch a year by wind, rain, and snow. The Park is surrounded by a 50-mile long Wall of cliff shelves, dotted by interesting very old mounds, and embedded by a large number of fossils that are still continuing to be found even today.

Painted Canyon at Theodore Roosevelt National Park 

red hot scoria

North Dakota has its own version of Badlands. They call it the Theodore Roosevelt National Park. The renowned conservationist president credits his success experiences here at the Maltese Cross Cabin which still stands at the Visitors’ Center. It is the least visited, though, and the formations are less spectacular. However, the reddish colors give the place vibrancy. Lightning strikes and prairie fires ignite coal beds beneath which bake the overlying sediments into a hard ‘scoria’ that is resistant to erosion.

almost complete bones of a mammoth 'in situ'

petrified bald cypress

Fossils offer the best clues to scientists and the Badlands are a rich source! The Petrified Gardens and Petrified Forest display many examples of tree petrifaction. The Museum of Geology in Rapid City houses the most complete bone framework of a tetracerops, a rhino-like beast the size of an elephant! At Hot Springs, south of Rapid City is Mammoth Site, a sink hole from which bones of 59 mammoths have been unearthed! Near the NE Wyoming Visitors’ Center (a model of net-zero energy use) is the Vore Buffalo Jump, another sinkhole where the bones of approximately 20,000 buffalos are preserved.

Wind Cave's boxwork formation

looking like Teddy at Jewel Cave

Aside from these badlands, grasslands, and treasure troves of fossils, complex cave systems are another world underneath. Jewel Cave is the second longest cave system in the world at 154 miles and still counting. It is named for calcite crystals that produce glowing cave walls. Wind Cave, on the other hand, is the fourth longest at 132 miles (also still counting). It is famous for the delicate boxwork formations inside and the howling wind that either blows in or out depending on barometric pressure differences.

Needles' Eye at Custer State Park

Then there are those igneous intrusions such as the monolithic, ridged Devil’s Tower, rising 5,112 ft. above sea level in the northeastern tip of Wyoming (remember Close Encounters). 5,000 rock climbers are challenged by it every year! Some believe that it is a volcanic neck but legend has it that the tower surged higher and higher to protect 8 kids from a giant bear’s claws. Bear Butte, another intrusion about 60 miles away, is where the giant bear died hungry. On the highest points of the Black Hills, Custer State Park has Cathedral Spires, Needles’ Eye, and other unique granite formations which were the first to be considered for the Presidents’ Sculpture but eventually lost to Mt. Rushmore, the artist’s choice.

Cathedral Spires at Custer State Park

The Center of the Nation

Before the addition of Alaska and Hawaii, the centermost point in America was in Lebanon, Kansas. Now, The Center of the Nation is actually 20 miles north of Belle Fourche, South Dakota. The compass rose marker surrounded by fifty state flags proudly marks it! It is about 150 miles south of the Theodore Roosevelt National Park, 100 miles west of the Badlands and 60 miles north of the Black Hills, and 60 miles east of Devil’s Tower. What a fascinating place this Center makes one is bound to fall in love with these outstanding works of nature! Actually, I believe they helped inspire those striking works of man! 

the legend at the Devil's Tower Visitor Center

Next Stop: Rounding Out Our Great Plains Adventure!

Saluting Man-Made Wonders of South Dakota OLA

an ordinary American couple among America's greatest men
in one of America's finest memorials to democracy 

South Dakota is a true revelation. We thought that the only thing to see there is Mt. Rushmore and the unfinished Crazy Horse Memorial! Little did I know that tourism, aside from cattle, is its life blood. So, instead of a single post, it will probably take me 2 to tell all our stories and show our best photos! In this first part I will include the wonders made by man while the second will deal with those made by nature.  

the profile of America's father

Seeing Mt. Rushmore for the first time gave me goose bumps. 60-ft faces of 465-ft tall Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt, and Lincoln were carved by Gutzon Borglum, under commission from the federal government, and 360 men on the solid granite walls of the mountain. Dedicated in 1927 and completed 2 years after the death of Borglum in 1941, it stands as a solid memorial of American democracy. Film greats such as National Treasure: Book of Secrets and North by Northwest were filmed there.

the Crazy Horse Memorial after 60 years
of dedicated work by the Korczak family...
to be completed in perhaps in another 60 years?

The other solid memorial will be the world’s largest sculpture, 641 feet long and 563 feet wide. Crazy Horse was the leader of the Indians who won at the Little Bighorn Battlefield and massacred the 263 men (please see my post last week), including Custer.  A private project started by the Lakota (Dakota came from this name) elders who in 1948 contacted Korczak, a Polish immigrant and former assistant to Borglum, it is now being continued as the Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation of Korczak’s family.

the missile in its underground silo
ready for its asignment...no more!

Aside from these inspiring works, there is also a menacing testament to war and destruction. At the East Entrance to the Badlands is the Minuteman II Missile Historic Site, the first memorial to the Cold War after which thousands of such sites were deactivated. It consists of 2 sites: Delta 01, the Launch Control Facility and Delta-09, the Underground Silo. I shivered at the thought that 500 of these missiles that can be deployed remotely by the flick of a finger and render human tragedy are still active in the country.

the Traveler's Chapel at the Wall Drug Store

well, what can I do? Bill found another!

 At the West Entrance is the inspiring story of a hardworking prairie family. Ted Hustead graduated from pharmacy school in 1929. After 2 years of working with other pharmacists, he, wife Dorothy and son Bill set out to look for a small town with a Catholic church and found Wall. Five years later they stumbled upon the secret that made their store famous: free ice water for thirsty travelers! They continue to serve 5,000 glasses of ice water a day and Wall Drug Store has become a tourist destination with many ice water wells, a Traveler’s Chapel, 26 western retail outlets, 300 Western paintings, a 560-seat restaurant of western cooking, singing raccoons, a Jackalope, a roaring T-Rex, and other fun stuff!

the view of Rapid City from the Dinosaur Park

Washington and 43 other presidents
grace downtown Rapid City 

Rapid City has complemented all these attractions by building a Dinosaur Park with towering life-size prehistoric dinosaur replicas on its highest point. 43 presidents also grace downtown Rapid City! Kids will also have loads of fun at Teddy Bear Town (with the largest collection of teddy bears in the world), and Storybook Island, a 4-acre park of the best-loved fairy tale characters!

the absolutely lovely Chapel on the Hills

Another unique structure is Chapel on the Hills, an exact replica of the famous intricately carved wooden Stavkirk Chapel in Borgund, Norway (which we plan to see when we go to Europe). And Sturgis, the city that draws hundreds of thousands of motorcyclists for a mammoth rally every August, is just nearby!

the unique town of Sturgis

Colossal, menacing, inspiring, child-like, and quaint works of legends like Boglum, Korczak, the Husteads, etc. are all around the Black Hills of South Dakota. I am glad we allotted 3 weeks to stay here. We have not even told you about the works of nature. The Badlands, Custer State Park, Devil’s Tower, Mammoth Site, the cave systems, etc.  Stop by again next week!